BY SONDOS ELQUTAIT
Literally Badla Arbiya means "Arab Suit", which seems a curiously self-referential term, but like the similar "Raqs Sharqi" – the Arabic term that translates as eastern dancing, as opposed to the west’s inaccurately descriptive belly-dancing - is probably most significant in recording the fact that the "native" is no longer the default.In the Libyan dialect Badla Arbiya refers to the traditional woman's costume: a tunic, a vest called a kurdiya, trousers and a length of cloth elaborately arranged over the whole. It is the latter that is the most distinctive piece, and the material, colour and wrap of it defines the ensemble, identifying the region and occasion. Nowadays women don't necessarily wear their region's design, and there are crazes for this or that style every wedding season.Variations of this costume are worn all across the Maghreb, but even within Libya there is a wide range of styles. The tunic design varies, but it is mostly to do with the wrap of the r'da which in the east of Libya is usually worn higher up, a few centimeters below the knees, while in the west it almost reaches the ankles. To match this the Sirwal (what the occident likes to call harem-pants) is calf-length in the east and ankle length in the west, as in both cases it has to show from beneath the r'da. The badla is made of silk woven with silver thread, and even the buttons are gold, so a Libyan woman in full regalia is wearing quite a fortune. Like the jewellery one set of buttons is used with any number of "badlat"- they're sewn unto the one you happen to be wearing. There is usually a repeating pattern, which together with the colour combination creates the variable elements to each design. A crescent moon, a five-pointed star and a hand are some of the most common symbols - all are seen as 'Islamic' although the hand especially, which superstition regards as warding off the evil eye, is not. There are fashions and designers, and customers can also order their own unique creations direct from the specialised factories.The same factories also buy the badlat, and burn them to extract the silver from which to make new thread and weave new rdawat. Some are just about falling to bits and desperately need a reincarnation; but quite often the badla is sold because the owner wants to "cash it in", whether because she needs the money, never wore it since her wedding or has worn it so often that she's sick of it and wants something more up-to-date. A less combustive form of recycling seems possible as people are now buying what is in good condition to use as fabrics for interior decoration.
(The Tripoli Post, 25 Februari 2008)
Literally Badla Arbiya means "Arab Suit", which seems a curiously self-referential term, but like the similar "Raqs Sharqi" – the Arabic term that translates as eastern dancing, as opposed to the west’s inaccurately descriptive belly-dancing - is probably most significant in recording the fact that the "native" is no longer the default.In the Libyan dialect Badla Arbiya refers to the traditional woman's costume: a tunic, a vest called a kurdiya, trousers and a length of cloth elaborately arranged over the whole. It is the latter that is the most distinctive piece, and the material, colour and wrap of it defines the ensemble, identifying the region and occasion. Nowadays women don't necessarily wear their region's design, and there are crazes for this or that style every wedding season.Variations of this costume are worn all across the Maghreb, but even within Libya there is a wide range of styles. The tunic design varies, but it is mostly to do with the wrap of the r'da which in the east of Libya is usually worn higher up, a few centimeters below the knees, while in the west it almost reaches the ankles. To match this the Sirwal (what the occident likes to call harem-pants) is calf-length in the east and ankle length in the west, as in both cases it has to show from beneath the r'da. The badla is made of silk woven with silver thread, and even the buttons are gold, so a Libyan woman in full regalia is wearing quite a fortune. Like the jewellery one set of buttons is used with any number of "badlat"- they're sewn unto the one you happen to be wearing. There is usually a repeating pattern, which together with the colour combination creates the variable elements to each design. A crescent moon, a five-pointed star and a hand are some of the most common symbols - all are seen as 'Islamic' although the hand especially, which superstition regards as warding off the evil eye, is not. There are fashions and designers, and customers can also order their own unique creations direct from the specialised factories.The same factories also buy the badlat, and burn them to extract the silver from which to make new thread and weave new rdawat. Some are just about falling to bits and desperately need a reincarnation; but quite often the badla is sold because the owner wants to "cash it in", whether because she needs the money, never wore it since her wedding or has worn it so often that she's sick of it and wants something more up-to-date. A less combustive form of recycling seems possible as people are now buying what is in good condition to use as fabrics for interior decoration.
(The Tripoli Post, 25 Februari 2008)
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar